Gauge + Yarn Subs
Starting a new project can be so exciting, but I am aware of the frustrations that comes with it. As a designer, I have worked with pattern testers in the past and the most daunting tasks have always been choosing the right yarn and obtaining gauge. Over the years, I have learned a lot in my experience and below I am sharing some of my tips and tricks for choosing a yarn substitute and things to keep in mind when swatching. I believe crocheting should be a fun experience, so I hope my method below can take some of the frustrations out of making your next project.
You must ALWAYS swatch, but it is especially important when you decide to use another yarn other than what is listed in the pattern. Yarn choice and tension plays a huge role in how big or small and how dense or drapey your project will be. Not all weights are created equal so keeping an open mind when working with a different yarn than what the pattern calls for is necessary. Have a blast exploring different yarns!
The method I have used over the years when trying to find substitutes for yarns is simple.
When selecting your yarn, a good start is to compare the gauge specifications on the yarn labels first. Research the yarn used in the pattern and jot down the gauge information to compare with the gauge information of the yarn you want to use. This helps you to rule out whether it will be a worth your while to buy or stash bust and move on to the swatching process.
Example 1
The listed gauge on a label reads 13 sc x 15 rows = 4”/10cm and the yarn you want to use has a listed gauge of 12 sc x 15 rows = 4”/10cm both using a 5.5mm hook. There’s a one stitch difference and they both have the same row, which boosts your starting chance of a great yarn substitute.
Example 2
The listed gauge on the yarn label is 18 sc x 20 rows = 4”/10cm on a 4mm hook and the listed gauge for the substituted yarn is 16 sc x 22 rows = 4”/10cm on a 5mm hook. Since it takes fewer stitches to obtain 4”/10cm on a larger hook, you can tell the yarn may have more weight. Your project has a chance of being denser than the original. Both differences can play a part in the outcome of your swatch/project, but the variations may not be noticeable to the naked eye since the margins are only two stitches/rows shy of each other.
Remember, since we are still gathering information from the yarn labels alone and are making estimated guesses, I would make another mental note that although the first yarn takes more stitches on a smaller hook to get to 4”/10cm, it takes less rows to get to 4”/10cm. A lot of things could be at play here (i.e.: fiber content) for those minor differences, but that does not mean this substitution is a no-go.
Example 3
The listed gauge is 24 sc x 32 rows = 4”/10cm. The substituted yarn lists a gauge of 32 sc x 42 rows = 4”/10cm, with both using a 3.5mm hook. The fiber contents are similar, but there is a major difference in the stitch count and total row count per 4”/10cm. It will take the substituted yarn eight more stitches and ten more rows to get to 4”/10cm than the original. Such differences could stem from several things, like the location the yarn was milled and how thickness was measured. I personally would not recommend using this substitute because of the various adjustments that it would entail. If this yarn was the only option, then pull out the calculator and pray your tension works in your favor.
If all else fails, visit my source for finding substitutes – www.yarnsub.com!
You’ve selected your yarn and as you begin swatching, here are a few helpful tips to remember:
Your tension may not be the same as the designer of the pattern. I always compare achieving gauge to two people following the same recipe. Both may use the same/similar ingredients; however, chances are the taste results may differ. Not that either is not tasty, it is just that two different hands shook the saltshaker.
I do not recommend loosen or tighten your tension on purpose. Always follow the natural flow of your hands and relax while crocheting. If you are a naturally loose/tight crocheter, you will eventually begin to loosen/tighten up once you get into your groove and rhythm of your project.
If after your swatch, your square turns out longer/wider than the gauge in the pattern, try sizing down on the crochet hook. If it turns out shorter/narrower, then try sizing up on the crochet hook.
The last resort would be to change the yarn entirely if it just is not working out and go back to the drawing board to start the search again. Although this method is not a solve all for every scenario, it has helped me tremendously to weed out what may or may not work and I hope it can help you when beginning new projects.
My aim is to make your crocheting experience a fun one from the start! If you have found this content helpful, let me know. Feel free to subscribe to my YouTube channel and follow me on Instagram for more crochet information and resources!